Caitlin Spent 3 Weeks Traveling Across Australia & New Zealand – Here’s What to Do, What to Skip, and Where to Pet a Kangaroo

That muffled garbling you hear? IT’S ME, SAYING G’DAY. FROM THE GREAT BARRIER REEF. IN AUSTRALIA. Settle in: I’m back with my yearly travel magnum opus, DOWN UNDER EDITION. Throw on your Men at Work record and grab your Vegemite toast, because we’re (temporarily) escaping to another continent! We have kangaroos. Snorkeling. Koalas. Wombats. Wallabies. Crocodiles. Helicopters. A precarious hot air balloon ride. Architecture. Herding dogs. AND THERE’S SO MUCH MORE, GUYS.

Brenda and I are newly-returned from 3 weeks of non-stop travel across Australia and New Zealand, and today, I’m going to yap all about it. If you’re planning a trip down under, this might help! And if you’re just trying to escape reality for a bit, this will DEFINITELY help. Kangaroo photos are below… (Yes, I pet one. And no, I likely won’t ever shut up about it.) Buckle up – the day by day breakdown starts now.

December 6: We arrived at LAX with only carry-on bags in tow. This was a trip – you know, an adventure! – and as such, we travelled to a new place every 2 to 3 days. Who wants to repack and schlep a big ol’ bag around every other day? NOT THESE GALS.

We flew for 12 hours to Auckland, grabbed some airport breakfast, and caught our next 4 hour flight to Melbourne. By the time we’d landed, we traveled a whole day into the future – we were 19 whole hours ahead of LA time and 22 hours ahead of the east coast.

Melbourne

December 8 + 9 + 10: Before I left for Australia, several of my former coworkers issued the same warnings: “It’s a long way to go,” they said. “You’re going to feel like you’ve stepped off the plane and into Santa Monica.” And respectfully, I must reply: WHAT IS EVERYONE TALKING ABOUT?!

As an American, Melbourne is a radical experience. A totally walkable city? Free public transit in commercial districts? Clean streets? Small businesses everywhere? Free college that only needs to be paid back once you’re earning over $75,000? Covered healthcare? And it was far more afforable than several of our major American cities, to boot (though this was mainly aided by the conversion rate – $60 USD is worth $100 AUD!).

All that to say: I LOVED IT. I loved the slew of small businesses that dotted every alleyway. I loved the centuries-old arcades, peppered with petite storefronts. I loved the free tram, and the friendly people, and the thoughtfully-planned city layout. If you’re new to international travel, Melbourne would be a FABULOUS first destination.

What to See: We stayed at the Langham, right off the Yarra river in the heart of the city. I can’t recommend that location enough – it’s walkable to EVERYTHING. We loved exploring the CBD (“central business district” – a very popular descriptor outside of America!), were particularly fond of The Block Arcade, and had a blast at the Queen Victoria Market. (Grab a bite from one of the specialty vendors first, then head outside to walk the aisles – if you love a flea market or swap meet, this will be right up your alley.) The Shrine of Remembrance and Botanical Gardens are also really beautiful, if you have time!

What to Skip: The Skydeck at the Eureka Tower. If you’ve been to the top of a tall building, I’m sure you can imagine what this is like. Your ears will pop on the elevator, though, which is always fun.

Uluru

December 11 + 12: After 3 days in Melbourne, we board a 3 hour flight to the heart of the Australian outback. We’re on our way to Uluru – formerly known as Ayers Rock – and the scenery is breathtaking.

We hopped off the plane and headed straight to Uluru, a massive 550-million-year-old sandstone monolith. It’s a sacred spot for the indigenous Anangu people – located nearly 300 miles from the nearest town – and it’s magnificent. It feels holy. That night, we gathered to watch the rock change colors as the sun set. This was the place Brenda was most excited to visit and I’ve gotta hand it to her: she was right. Uluru is incredible.

I’m going to get real with you for a second: the bugs are out of control. It’s not a myth or an exaggeration! Upon opening our hotel closet, we discovered 2 robes and a huge can of flying insect spray; I found ants in my bed; I will spare you a photo of insects feasting on a huge dead bug in our room. Outside is even worse – the next morning, when we embarked on a quick hike to the Mutitjulu Watering Hole, our tour guide handed out netted face masks. (We were in the minority who didn’t wear them, if that’s any indication of how many freakin’ bugs are out there.)

But it didn’t matter – we had such an incredible experience here. Uluru has been a meeting place for the Anangu for millennia, so the energy is wonderful. We stopped in to Walkatjara Art at the Cultural Center and I bought this piece by Joy Jackson – I can’t wait to get it framed!

What to See: Uluru, obviously. The cultural center is absolutely worth your time (just leave the camera – no photos allowed!). And if you want to buy art, buy it in Uluru! Your payment will go directly to the artist.

What to Skip: We only spent one night here. And honestly, after watching the bug buffet next to my bed, I think one night is likely enough.

Cairns, Daintree, & The Great Barrier Reef

December 13 + 14 + 15: After our morning jaunt, we hopped on a 3 hour flight to Cairns. We landed in the middle of major storm, so we nixed our rainforest gondola plans (we had been hoping to ride the Sky Rail Cableway!) and then caught a 2 hour bus ride to the Daintree Rainforest. We lucked into a room at the Silky Oaks Lodge, an indoor/outdoor hotel right on the Mossman River. It’s buried in the middle of the rainforest and so unbelievable that I forgot to take photos. (At least I was living in the moment, I guess.) The A/C barely worked; the power went out; bugs filled the tub – DIDN’T MATTER. It was extraordinary. I’d do anything to go back!!!

The next day, I checked a massive dream off my miles-long bucket list: we got to snorkel at the Great Barrier Reef. THREE TIMES, GUYS! I’m still pinching myself. We visited three different sites – The Botanic Gardens, The Paddocks, and The Chapel – and it was otherworldly. I only wish my GoPro could capture better colors!

But as it turns out, December is high jellyfish season. We did have to wear special protective suits that covered everything (that’s why I look so beautiful in the opener to this post, clearly), but I’d do it again in a heartbeat. If you’re interested in snorkeling but worried about your skill level, don’t fret – you can still wear a life jacket! I’d HIGHLY recommend this to anyone and everyone.

The next day, we woke up at 3 AM for a long drive down to Mareeba. This was a surprise from Brenda, and it was WONDERFUL. We hopped in our balloon for what was supposed to be a 30 minute ride during sunset, but our balloon had other thoughts – we soared above the bush for over an hour before “bomb landing” (their term, not ours) in a field surrounded by power lines. We braced in our spots and prepared to tip over as balloon staff worked to physically push our basket into a safer spot. (One truck may or may not have been lost in a ditch in the mad dash to make it to our landing site.)

Would I do it again? ABSO-FREAKIN’-LUTELY. I think you should, too! (Just don’t try it in America – it only requires 20 hours of training here, compared to more than 50 in Australia. We were in super capable hands, despite traveling farther than anticipated!)

YEAH, I KNOW. We’re finally getting to the good stuff!!! The next day, we packed our bags and hit the road. Our first stop? Hartley’s Crocodile Adventures. Is a crocodile terrorizing your farm? Send him to Hartley’s. Croc eat your cow? Hartley’s. Croc seemingly having health trouble? Off to Hartley’s!

Hartley’s also takes care of a number of grey kangaroos, wallabies, wombats, koalas, snakes, birds. We scored an invite to their kangaroo and wallaby enclosure, where I FELL IN LOVE.

GET A LOAD OF THESE BABIES! Their tiny teeth! Their silly hands! Their unbridled curiosity! I’ve been so lucky to meet so many different animals this year – wild horses in Argentina, seals in Mexico, penguins in Antarctica – and every time, I’m left feeling a renewed commitment to our planet as a whole. We gotta keep things nice for these little guys, you know? (I posted a video of some of these roos on my Instagram – a photo doesn’t do them justice!)

My love of animals extends to reptiles, too. If you’ve ever dreamed of snuggling a Python (this was wonderful – it was about a million degrees with a trillion percent humidity, so he felt like a giant ice pack!) or embracing a baby crocodile (hold right under the jaw to keep them safe!), Hartley’s is worth a stop.

We also met this nice crocodile, Hagrid (fittingly named for his enormous size), and spent some one-on-one time with a this Koala.

What to See: The Great Barrier Reef wins this one.

What to Skip: I LOVED every single thing we did in Tropical North Queensland. No complaints! No skips! I’ll happily go back. My only word of advice? Don’t go to Hartley’s immediately before heading to the airport – we spent our 3 hour flight to Sydney drenched in sweat.

Sydney

December 15 + 16 + 17: BUT MAN, LOOK AT THIS PLACE! Sydney, you are officially my favorite city in the world. The flight in was incredible – get a load of the bridge and the Opera House! – and we were THRILLED to discover that our hotel had a stunning view of the Harbour Bridge. (When we opened the door to our room the first time, the curtains magically pulled back to reveal our fantastic view. The curtains never opened or shut on their own again – just the one time, when we first walked in – which makes it feel even more special.

The next day, we woke up early for a tour of the Opera House. If you’re an architecture dork (guilty as charged!), this is a MUST-DO. I’d never seen any photos of the inside, and it BLEW ME AWAY. It’s a revelation. Total mastery of engineering and design. And it has such a fraught history, too!

After our tour, we hopped on a small boat for an afternoon sail through the Harbour. This is worth it!!! We eventually stopped for dinner near the Opera House and met a handful of Seagull Patrol dogs – they’re contracted by the city to protect people from pesky flying thieves. The handlers have a blast; the dogs have a blast; local businesses no longer need to extend refunds for spoiled food; and tourists (like us!) love seeing the pups at work.

The next day, we walked through historic Sydney (which, again, looks NOTHING LIKE SANTA MONICA – it puts LA to shame!) before catching a ferry to the town of Manly. I’d hoped to swim while Brenda relaxed on the beach, but our plans were foiled by a hammerhead shark. (Note that the native Australians swimming in the background do not seem to be particularly worried.)

What to See: Do ALL the tourist stuff. I know it’s corny, but it’s worth it. Sydney is a rapidly-growing world-class city with stellar public transit, entertainment, dining, and architecture – I’ve never been so impressed. (Can I move?)

What to Skip: You can climb the Harbour Bridge…but you’ll be strapped into a thick body suit on top of your clothes, it’s wise to avoid it in the middle of summer. (Alternatively, grab a sunrise or evening slot.)

Wellington

December 18 + 19: We departed Sydney early on the 18th and caught a – you guessed it! – 3 hour flight to Wellington, New Zealand. It’s worth noting that the customs and security experience on the bottom half of the planet is SO MUCH BETTER than ours. Laptops stay in bags! Shoes stay on feet! And somehow, after nearly 2 decades, New Zealand airport security agents were the ONLY PEOPLE to ever spot and examine Brenda’s travel scissors.

The next 48 hours are a total blur – it was windy. It was wet. We were freezing – so much so that we needed to buy layers! – but we loved Wellington. (James Cameron and Peter Jackson call it home for a reason!) I was particularly charmed by the vernacular design details – the sweet manhole covers; the thoughtful bollards; even the crossing signs featured images of the Haka! (A quick clip is on my Instagram – I just loved it.)

We embarked on a quick walking food tour of the city, and I need to highlight a favorite: the KB Kombucha Tap Room. Y’all, I love Kombucha. I’ve tried them all! But this kombucha is NEXT LEVEL – smooth and flavorful, without the acidic/sour bite that all my friends whine about. If you’re a food and beverage importer, PLEASE BRING THIS TO AMERICA. I will buy $5 bottles until the end of time.

We closed our time in Wellington with a trip to the Te Papa Museum, which is BY FAR the best interactive museum I’ve ever visited. The staff is so passionate about sharing their knowledge and the exhibits are fresh and engaging (think “a real-life giant squid you can walk around” and “a life-size whale heart model for kids to climb in”).

What to See: Te Papa Museum! I could have spent a whole day here, if time allowed. Peter Jackson (of Lord of the Rings fame) produced some of the exhibits, so the production value is extraordinary. Cuba Street is great for galleries, vintage stores, cafes, etc. And do some shopping, too – the conversion rate is AMAZING. ($1 USD = $1.81 NZD!)

What to Skip: The wind and weather rained on our parade here, so we left a lot unexplored. Drop your tips in the comments, please!

Blenheim & Marlborough

December 20 + 21: We woke up on the morning of the 20th to a special treat: our travel plans had fallen through, and we would now be taking a tiny propeller plane on a 30 minute flight to the South Island. It was windy, terrifying, and SO MUCH FUN.

We landed and immediately drove to Picton, a small tourist town on the shores of Marlbourough Sounds. We boarded a boat (spoiler: we are on a boat nearly every day for the rest of the trip) and took a lunchtime cruise through the Sounds. I couldn’t get over the beautiful homes dotting the coast, and we met a handful of locals who were kayaking home after grabbing coffee in town. Can you imagine living here and kayaking for your morning coffee? WHAT A DREAM.

The food on our boat was FABULOUS. Our captain prepared the best salmon I’ve ever had – not joking, I’m still thinking about it! – and we snacked on huge, local green mussels with soy and chili sauce as we sailed past stunning homes and massive fauna. (Since we were in Marlborough, the local Sauvignon Blanc was flowing, too.) After lunch, we tossed leftover mussels back into the water and watched as swarms of blue cod emerged from the depths to feed.