In New Orleans, Look to These 2 Hotels for the French Quarter Experience

There are a lot of reasons to visit New Orleans — the food, the music, the celebrations, you name it. For me, it was the city’s rich history that beckoned. My husband and I recently spent three days in New Orleans, choosing the French Quarter as our base.

The city’s oldest neighborhood, the French Quarter of today is filled with boutique hotels that blend past and present. We spent two nights getting pampered at Hotel Monteleone in the heart of the district before moving to the neighborhood’s quieter side with a stay at the stately Bienville House — two of three hotels in New Orleans that are all owned by the same family.

And after experiencing the city from inside the iconic French Quarter, I couldn’t imagine seeing The Big Easy any other way.

Photo: Hotel Monteleone

It was 10 AM, and music from a two-piece jazz band was already drifting across the Carousel Bar at Hotel Monteleone. The French Quarter was waking up, and I could see tourists hurrying past the windows, most likely heading to brunch.

I was sitting in one of the bar’s 24 prized rotating seats along with eight others, thanks to the Carousel Bar Experience, which hotel patrons can book before the bar officially opens at 11 AM. Securing a seat during regular hours is no small feat. For $100, the hour-long experience not only guarantees you a spot but also includes a talk from a tour guide and a complimentary drink.

My group’s guide, Mike Dupree, the food and beverage manager at Hotel Monteleone and a certified NOLA tour guide, told us, “We probably have to have two seats a month fixed by our engineering department because when people see an empty seat, they run in like they’re playing for the Saints. You’re knocking that seat out.”

Photo: Abigail Singrey

Just before the carousel grinds to a start, the woman next to me says, “You won’t know you’re moving until you look up and you’re in a different part of the bar.” She’s right. The motion is very gentle, making a full revolution every 15 minutes. The hotel’s mixologist makes the rounds, taking drink orders. Given the morning hour, Bloody Marys were the most popular choice with the group, but my husband and I opted for a refreshing Pimm’s cup instead.

The spinning carousel is an experience, but what really drew me to Hotel Monteleone’s bar is its storied history. Liberace was the very first performer at the Carousel Bar in 1949 while Truman Capote often entertained friends with the claim that he was born there. (In reality, he was born in a nearby hospital, but with his mother living at the hotel at the time, the story wasn’t entirely far-fetched.) And there I was, sitting in the same seats that countless writers, musicians, and artists have before me — a taste of history served with a perfectly crafted cocktail.

Elegant digs and four-star hospitality

Photo: Hotel Monteleone

The valet greeted my husband and me when we pulled up to Hotel Monteleone in our car. Music, laughter, and conversation spilled out from the lobby when he opened the front doors. Walking into the hotel, I felt I was in the beating heart of the French Quarter.

The hotel has been owned by the Monteleone family — which also owns the Bienville House in the French Quarter and the Pontchartrain Hotel in the city’s Garden District — since 1886. Additional towers have been added to the original structure over time. They all rise to the same height (think giant row houses) and are mostly connected, but not all elevators go to all floors. It’s somewhat complex once you’re inside, but there’s signage to help you navigate.

Photo: Hotel Monteleone

With 522 guest rooms, the hotel has lodging options ranging from traditional rooms to suites named after literary figures. The Royal Salon provides spacious accommodations, featuring a wardrobe and desk, while the Literary Suites offer an elegantly situated living room and a separate bedroom. Interview with a Vampire author Anne Rice used to rent a suite to help her focus each time she had a deadline for a new book.

My husband and I were placed in a superior king room on the 14th floor in the hotel’s newest section, the Iberville Tower, which was remodeled in 2023. Despite the lobby’s liveliness, the rooms are a quiet retreat from the hustle and bustle of the French Quarter. Decorated in soothing grays and whites, our room provided soft, luxurious bathrobes and slippers, comfortable beds, and a waterfall shower. Small touches like a courtesy umbrella were much appreciated, as it rained one morning during our trip. I can see why literary greats — a list that also includes Ernest Hemingway — chose to write here.

A rooftop pool and a dinner to remember

Photo: Hotel Monteleone

After checking into the hotel, my husband and I went up to the 15th floor to check out the rooftop pool. It was unseasonably cold during my visit to New Orleans, so I didn’t slip into the heated pool, but I did take in the views of the skyline from the pool deck. The spacious exercise room next door provided a wide range of equipment.

Beyond the amenities, some of my favorite moments at Hotel Monteleone were spent dining at Criollo Restaurant. We enjoyed breakfast there both mornings, seated at a sunlit table by the window with a charming view of the French Quarter shops. I savored the eggs Benedict and the house-cured Faroe Island salmon tartine, elevated by candied orange, green onion gremolata, and a honey-beet drizzle. Meanwhile, my husband stuck with the Monteleone Breakfast both days, indulging in a hearty spread of eggs, breakfast potatoes, sausage, and a flaky biscuit.

Photo: Abigail Singrey

We kicked off our trip with a truly enchanting experience on our first night at Criollo — the Le Petit Chef immersive dinner, a reserve-in-advance five-course meal held inside a private room. A whimsical animated character, Le Petit Chef, appeared on our table, playfully preparing each of the meal’s five courses through a projection. With every dish, something went amusingly awry — like a lobster pulling him into the ocean — eliciting giggles from all around. The meal itself was the best we had in New Orleans.

The feast began with creamy burrata on a bed of fresh lettuce, followed by a flavorful bouillabaisse brimming with octopus, clams, shrimp, and snapper. The standout dishes were the decadently creamy lobster tail served in a citrus beurre blanc sauce and the melt-in-your-mouth beef short ribs. By the time dessert arrived, I wasn’t sure I could take another bite, but I couldn’t resist sampling the warm Valrhona chocolate brownie — its rich chocolate flavor was perfectly complemented by the subtle smokiness of the smoked semifredo.

The Le Petit Chef dinner experience costs $130 per person compared to $95 per person for a five-course dinner served at other tables in the restaurant.

Stepping out onto Bourbon Street

Marcus E Jones/Shutterstock

When you’re not on the property, Hotel Monteleone is just a block from Bourbon Street, promising plenty of opportunity to immerse yourself in New Orleans’ vibrancy. You can stroll down Bourbon Street each evening, stopping by lively spots like the Old Absinthe House and the Cat’s Meow karaoke bar to enjoy live music and sip on a classic New Orleans cocktail like the Sazerac. Stroll down Royal Street to browse shops like Keil’s Antiques and Royal Antiques for a glimpse into the past — or stay in a literary mood by exploring nearby used bookstores like Crescent City Books and Beckham’s Books.

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Photo: Bienville House

For my first visit to New Orleans, I knew that I wanted to experience a historic hotel in the heart of the French Quarter. I got to do just that Bienville House, a property that offers all the charm of a bygone era while keeping you just steps from the city’s modern excitement.

Originally built in 1835 as the Planter’s Rice Mill, the hotel’s building has served many purposes over the years, including as a fire station and an apartment complex. In 1972, the Monteleone family acquired the property and transformed it into a luxurious retreat, with classic revival architecture inspired by Greek and Roman temples.

In 2006, the hotel became a member of the Historic Hotels of America, which recognizes time-honored properties as part of the National Trust for Historic Preservation.

A room with a view

Photo: Bienville House

Bienville House has just 83 rooms, making it feel like a home away from home. Room types range from a standard suite to a sundeck suite or penthouse suite, which features one- or two-bedroom floor plans and a generous balcony with soaring views.

My husband and I stayed in a spacious deluxe king room. The carved four-poster bed, together with floor-length floral curtains, evoked the charm of an English country home, complete with 300-thread-count triple cotton sheets. The marble bathroom was spotless and stocked with complimentary Gilchrist and Soames toiletries. The highlight, however, was our second-floor wrought-iron balcony, complete with a table and chairs, overlooking Decatur Street. Other rooms have balconies facing the serene inner courtyard.

The courtyard has numerous wrought-iron tables and chairs, plus a view of the heated saltwater pool, which is inviting for dips in the water if not a place for swimming laps. Lush potted plants provide a vibrant contrast to the cool blue water, while classical statuary lends a timeless Greco-Roman charm. It’s the perfect spot to savor your morning coffee, freshly brewed from your in-room Keurig, as I saw many guests do in the morning.

Morning bites and tiki nights

Photo: Abigail Singrey

Bienville House doesn’t offer breakfast, but there’s a ton of options within walking distance of the hotel. We strolled a block down Decatur Street to Ruby Slipper, a New Orleans original since 2008 that’s famed for its brunch. I enjoyed a New Orleans twist on avocado toast — complete with herbed creme fraiche — while my husband chose the heartier biscuits and gravy. The Ruby mimosa provides a perfectly refreshing complement, but those feeling more adventurous also have the option to order a mimosa flight.

As the afternoon faded into evening, I found the perfect spot at a table overlooking the courtyard pool at Beachbum Berry’s Latitude 29, the hotel’s attached tiki bar. Flameless candles flickered on each table, and overhead lanterns cast shadows on the bar. The design hit all the notes of tiki decor — dark woods, bamboo, and a hint of nautical, along with custom displays celebrating its legendary founder, Jeff Berry, an author and tiki historian. The atmosphere created a laid-back vibe, complemented by the scent of tropical fruit and rum.

I opted for a blended drink, Brad’s Banana Banshee, which combines a whole banana with coconut milk and dark Jamaican rum, to complement the tropical vibes. The drink was served with an umbrella, banana leaf, and a tiki-mask-shaped ice cube. For food, my husband and I split an order of muu ping bao and coconut shrimp, while my husband had the L29 burger. The standout was the muu ping bao — the bold kick of pandan-marinated pork balanced perfectly with crisp cucumber, fresh cilantro, and pickled chili, all enhanced by a drizzle of caramel fish sauce.

Exploring Jackson Square

Photo: Abigail Singrey

A short walk from the Mississippi River, Bienville House offers a prime location for taking in the waterfront views. It’s only three blocks from Jackson Square where artists create and sell their work amid lively shops, restaurants, and historic buildings. At the heart of the square, the towering gothic spires of the St. Louis Cathedral draw in both worshippers and tourists. One of the oldest continuously operating cathedrals in the US, the current structure was completed in 1851 and hosted Pope John Paul II during his 1987 visit. It’s worth venturing inside to see how the Renaissance-style frescoes meld with ornate classical moldings and Greek columns.

Next, my husband and I explored the museum inside The Presbytère museum next door. The lower floor presents a sobering look at the devastation caused by Hurricane Katrina, providing a powerful reminder of New Orleans’ resilience, while the upper floor delights with the glitz and glamour of Mardi Gras. One of my favorite exhibits featured the dazzling jewels worn by Queens of Carnival from the late 1800s and early 1900s.

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Both Hotel Monteleone and Bienville House are just about an hour’s taxi ride from the airport (and have valet parking for guests who are driving in). At Hotel Montelone, a nearby trolley stop provides easy access to explore New Orleans, while Bienville House is close to both a trolley stop and ferry port, which makes getting around a breeze.